Christmas in the South

It's the first Christmas I've spent in the south. Since my husband's cousin Dorothy had a family gathering in Baton Rouge, we just stayed in town and wandered. We found the Five Happiness Chinese Restaurant on Carrollton and had Christmas dinner there. It was great--just what the doctor ordered. The weather was overcast and chilly--a change from the very warm weather that greeted us when we arrived two weeks ago.

We're starting to get back into some kind of normal groove. The move and the real estate dealings were the hardest things I've ever done in my life. Now that we're here, it's strange not knowing what's next in life. We plan to eventually build a little house in Texas for now, but plans change as opportunities arise. I'm finally realizing that I have no real home to speak of, which is sort of par for most people in New Orleans. At least those folks KNOW that, in general, New Orleans is their home. For sure. No doubt. There is still this strange part of me that remembers my home being in Utah, but I think about it more, and realize that NO--that is not my home anymore. And it's strange being here this time and not having to go back to home, to work. My home was also my work, too. But that's not mine anymore either.

The one constant though is my husband. My best friend, business partner, and adventure buddy, he is the whole reason I'm even here. I may not have a home or a job at this point, but I do still have my husband--it could be worse. There are a lot of people here that, after the storm, after the return home, after cleaning and rebuilding, their relationships just fell apart...after all the really hard work we've been through, and living and working together since we met over ten years ago, I am happy that we are still hanging in there. But now we're in new waters. This will be a whole new chapter in our lives, and I can only pray that what has come before will prepare us for what lies ahead...whatever that is.

Hubby and I will actually begin working this week on the construction project we came here to do, so I don't know how busy or not busy I'll be in the long run as that job will soon be finished, and we will have to either a) move on, b)stay and get jobs, or c)do something completely, totally, as-yet-unforseen. I saw REALLY cool, big house on Esplanade that was for sale, but it was really big, really old, and really in need of lots of TLC. Lots. I plan to go take a look at it and see if I can get a showing--if it's safe to even enter, that is. I'll get pictures and put them here as time and opportunity permits.

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As an interesting side note, I've had a few sightings of famous people since we've arrived. Unfortunately, I've not seen anyone associated with the movie that's being filmed a few blocks away, but I did see George Lucas in a coffee shop on Magazine Street last week. For those citizens of New Orleans looking for Mayor C. Ray--I saw him at the Shops on Canal Place last week, too, and I said hello. He said hello back. And although I'm not 100% sure about this particular sighting, and not many folks will know who this is, I'm almost totally sure I saw MSNBC producer Willie Geist wandering Bourbon Street a while back when the Redskins were in town. He's really really tall. But I'm actually really short--almost vertically challenged, but not quite--so I would guess he would look pretty tall to me. With my luck spotting these people, it gives me hope that I could actually go out and find an Ivory-Billed Woodpecker, which in my moving recovery and general malingering, I've not yet done.

The New New Orleans.

So we're back in New Orleans, and as a semi-regular visitor to the city, I can make some comparisons to the previous visits. The town has changed, to be sure.

Traffic.
Dec. 2005: Very light. Lots of hummers with MPs and ambulances. Not much else.
July 2006: Getting heavy. People are back, and so are a lot of out-of-towners. More 18-wheelers are on the roads.
Dec. 2006. Sweet feathery Jesus. Stuck in a jam on Veterans Boulevard on Friday afternoon. Lots of locals are back in the mix. Stop signs seem to be optional, as do blinking red lights.

Attitudes.
Dec. 2005: Joy mixed with profound depression, yet most people are very very nice.
July 2006: A sense of forward momentum, and everyone is busy on repair/rebuilding projects, and still pretty nice.
Dec. 2006: People are still busy rebuilding, getting places, but the small-town kindnesses are few and far between. Lots of surly check-out girls no matter where you shop.

Trash.
Dec. 2005: Big heaping piles everywhere. Large appliances on the curb.
July 2006: Still large piles, but not as visible. Not many appliances in view.
Dec. 2005: Trash piles very few and far between, but general litter more visible now than in previous visits.

Business.
Dec. 2005: Very few stores/shops/restaurants are open; hours are limited.
July 2006: More old businesses and new businesses are open; hours are relatively normal. But not quite.
Dec. 2006: Very few places are closed. Several places have moved to new locations. Hours are normal.

Kids.
Dec. 2005: I could count on both hands the number of children I saw.
July 2006: I was surprised when I would go out and see kids. Lots more were back.
Dec. 2006: Kids are everywhere...at schools, on busses, at stores. Yep, the kids are back.

French Quarter.
Dec. 2005: Bars are open; Bourbon Street is rocking. Many shops closed.
July 2006: Bars are open; Bourbon Street is rocking. Many shops open.
Dec. 2006: Bars are open; Bourbon Street is rocking. Many shops open. Still.

In all, the city is almost normal. Like a big city again. However, as we drove through town yesterday, there were still places that were deserted. Damaged. Shocking, and sad. It was a jolt back to, "Hey, things are still not right. People are still not back. Houses are still empty. Damn." Fifteen months later and still...my god. God help New Orleans...

Since coming back to New Orleans this time, I can say that I feel something has changed. I can't put my finger on it right at the moment, but the general vibe is much different. I feel like an intruder. I don't know if this will change; I do hope so. Now, we aren't pressured to get work done and get back to Utah. We're here for the duration, a length of time I'm not sure how long will last. After the stress of selling and moving, perhaps I'm still tired and my perceptions are somewhat tainted by the uncertainty of my life right now. I'm not scared, I'm just...sort of...drifting. Honestly, I can't wait until we can get to work on the construction project we have to do. I think that will help. And, the imminent visit of my dear friend Carolyn will be a much-needed tonic to the last month's drama. I cannot wait to see her here!

Back in the Big Easy

The Curious Case of Benjamin Button (film) - Wikipedia

So we're back in New Orleans now for an indefinite period of time. There is a movie being filmed just a few blocks away from us; the above link tells as much as can be known about the mysterious goings on south of Prytania, where streets are blocked off and vintage automobiles sit by the curbs.

It's hot. We only brought winter clothing with us, and it has been consistently warm since we arrived. Last night, an eerie fog descended on the entire town, and it was suitably spooky. So far, we've unpacked and sort of regained our bearings as this place has been our other home since last year. We visited the Wal-Mart on Tchoupitoulas, scene of the infamous post-Katrina looting, and it's as though nothing ever happened. It still was not open when we were here in July, so this is a new place for us to visit.

We have construction work ahead of us, but I also plan to indulge my creative side. How, I'm not yet sure. But I will check on some things I might need to do little art projects and see how that works out.

The last few weeks have been entirely stressful, and I'm glad to be here just sort of hanging out. I need the break from pressing needs, crisis situations, or being in the car for three days. And I am thankful for the warm weather! We left winter in Utah; here, it's still fall.

I went to church today for the first time in a long time. I couldn't even recall when the last time I took eucharist actually occured. But it was like getting on a bike...I remembered exactly how to do it. I don't see myself attending regularly, but it is nice to have just a few blocks away should the impulse strike.

The streetcars are still not back on St. Charles, but we expect them any day. City crews have been working feverishly at our intersection, digging stuff up, getting into manholes, redirecting traffic, all in a frantic bid to get the cars back up and running. That will be a wonderful day--and I'm honored that I'll be here to see it.

There is always something that needs to get done around here, but for now, we're lying low. We need the rest.

Endings.

My uncle is a Pearl Harbor survivor. This weekend, he is at a reunion of Pearl Harbor survivors, where he will visit the ship he was on that morning in 1941. This is the last reunion of survivors that were on the Algiers, a Navy firefighting vessel. Not too many survivors are left at this point, so this is the last year. AND...they get to walk the decks of the old girl one more time.

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This is also our last night in Escalante, Utah. It has been a wild ride. We are celebrating with some friends, having dinner. Then we'll go to a more loose gathering at a friend's restaurant later on. We are very tired. We have lived in a rental since last week, staying to train the new owners in running a gear store. This whole selling/moving/training ordeal has aged me a year, easily. Maybe more. Tomorrow, we will drive to New Orleans. We should be there by Monday night.

So today was a day for endings in many ways. It's hard to believe that this is the last night here in the little valley...well dinner's on the table. I must away. I guess I'll get to writing on the road. Being this stressed has limited my energy and creativity, no doubt. Now, hopefully, I can begin to normalize.

More to come.